DHR Journey – What you see
Your journey commences: New Jalpaiguri – Tindharia

On leaving New Jalpaiguri the little line parallels its bigger Metre gauge cousin (on the left facing the direction of travel) through the built-up area of Siliguri, an important trade centre for Assam and the Eastern Himalayas.

After Siliguri we cross the river Mahanadi on a 700 foot-long bridge although much of the river bed is often dry. After Siliguri junction the line enters open countryside where we soon see our first tea estates. At one time the Darjeeling Railway had branches from here to the south at Kishangunj (now replaced by a Metre gauge line) and north-east up the beautiful Teesta Valley. Unfortunately this latter line was washed away by the Monsoon in 1950 never to be restored.

We now see the Himalayan Foothills in front of us, probably wreathed in the mystic blue mists of the morning. At Sukna you can stretch your legs and take photographs whist we make our first stop for water before we start the climb (these stops will be a regular occurrence from now on).

By Rangtong we have reached 1,400 feet and soon stop for more water a little after the station - time now to pause and admire the beautiful Terai Forest stretching down below to our left. Once we are ready the train runs on through thickly wooded forest but is soon stopping for our first engineering feat - a reversing station. We run backwards and forwards again climbing up steep slopes in both directions, zig-zagging through the jungle to gain all-important height. At one time a steep and complicated loop existed here but this was replaced by the reversing station in World War II to enable bigger and heavier trains to run.

Further on we come to what is now the first loop at Chunbati once the site of a rest house in the days of travel by Tonga(horse cart). On the mountainside to the north-east the big building you see is Tindharia works where the little trains are maintained. Later on we run past the works on our left before halting at Tindharia. We are now 2,822 feet above sea level.

Panaromas beneath your feet: Tindharia - Kurseong

At Tindharia there is time to take tea and perhaps a snack before we are on our way again. Higher and higher, another reverse, and then shortly after another spectacular loop. We bear round to our right as if to launch
  Tourists

into the valley below. In what appears to be an afterthought our little train swerves round back into the jungle, climbing again. Not surprisingly this loop rejoices in the name 'Agony Point'.

 
Station  
Our train reverse again before passing through Gayabari station at 3,400 feet. At this point over to your right you will see a great scar down the hillside caused by 'Pagla Jhora', the Mad Torrent. In the monsoon season over 30 inches of rain can fall in one month, small wonder then that Pagla Jhora can sweep away the road and railway, cutting off Darjeeling for days. As you later pass over what is normally a small stream it is perhaps impossible to believe that it can turn into a torrent and be responsible for causing the hillside to collapse into the valley below.
 
 A little later we run into Kurseong a major hill town at over 4,864 feet. By now the weather is likely to have got markedly colder from the humid climate in the plains below.
     
Into the Clouds: Kurseong – Ghum
We reverse out of Kurseong station before running forward again through the streets. The shops are so close we can pluck produce from the windows of the train, but be sure to pay After pausing at Tung station for more water the train moves on to Sonada with its station building dating from the first days of operation in the 1880's. At 7,407 feet Ghum is the highest station on the line and also the site of a famous monastery - well worth visiting if you are staying in Darjeeling.
  Hill
 

The Roof of the World & Queen of the Hills: Ghum - Darjeeling

The train staff now pins down the brakes on the coaches, to restrain the train against the gradient as we descend down the steep slope to
 
Teesta  
Darjeeling. After Ghum we cross the road and then run up along a small ridge to reach the most spectacular engineering feat on the line, the Batasia loop. If dusk has not descended, and the clouds are absent, you will be confronted by the massive bulk of Kanchenjunga, a breathtaking finale to one of the world's most famous railway journeys.
 

Our engine takes a last drink of water; the waiting now strains our patience but our train soon starts off again making musical squeals as it runs round the last sharp curves into Darjeeling station. It has been over 8 hours since we left the plains and the lights are now coming on all over town. Darkness falls and it is now time to make your way to your hotel. Later over dinner you can reflect on the amazing trip you have experienced on the world's most famous narro-gauge railway - the Darjeeling Himalayan.